The Fire Plough - Fire Plow - Stick and Groove
Updated: March 2021
Fire Plough Tutorial
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The Fire Plough / Fire Plow / Stick and Groove or Hika Ahi (Māori) is most likely one of the earliest friction methods attempted by our ancestors, due to technical simplicity i.e. literally rubbing 2 pieces of wood together!
It is commonly used throughout Polynesia. The Samoans make it look very easy and I watched this video lots of times to refine the technique and learn from the masters! The fire plough is also mentioned in the Polynesian Maui legends. where Maui steals fire from the fire goddess Manuka. This is an interesting article on the Polynesian methods. |
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Although simple technology wise, the Fire Plough was commonly seen to be one of the more difficult friction methods in the UK (/ Northern Hemisphere) , with little information available on using this method in the UK. I would like to put that right. I feel that I can now part knowledge on the Fire Plough. In June 2020 I successfully teased out my first ember and have been practising and experimenting and refining my technique since then (and still am.) I now have more knowledge to share on my experiences and what seems to work for me, learning from my many failures - failure is the key to success!
I don't see myself as an expert, though I am slowly becoming more consistent the more I practice.
The Fire Plough is possible in the UK , you don't need to be muscly (I'm not!) but it can be a bit of a finickity method and you need to have the right materials, refine the technique and have patience! It has taken me many many attempts over 3 or 4 years to get to this point! I kept giving up but always coming back to it, to give it another go as I knew a few people had achieved it in the UK. I watched as many videos as I could find to get a few tips. This little bit of knowledge and perseverance eventually paid off!
However, when I thought I was getting consistent, I started to fail more , so I re-watched my own videos, re-read my own advice and tried to figure out what was happening. And over the next few months I continued to practice and hone the technique. I will continue to update the page as I learn more, as there is always something to learn!
Below is a short 60 sec demo from January 2021
I don't see myself as an expert, though I am slowly becoming more consistent the more I practice.
The Fire Plough is possible in the UK , you don't need to be muscly (I'm not!) but it can be a bit of a finickity method and you need to have the right materials, refine the technique and have patience! It has taken me many many attempts over 3 or 4 years to get to this point! I kept giving up but always coming back to it, to give it another go as I knew a few people had achieved it in the UK. I watched as many videos as I could find to get a few tips. This little bit of knowledge and perseverance eventually paid off!
However, when I thought I was getting consistent, I started to fail more , so I re-watched my own videos, re-read my own advice and tried to figure out what was happening. And over the next few months I continued to practice and hone the technique. I will continue to update the page as I learn more, as there is always something to learn!
Below is a short 60 sec demo from January 2021
Since June 2020, I have practiced over many hours and honed my technique and become more consistent and often able to succeed on the first attempt (such as in the above clip.) However, to me it's not important how quickly one does it, it's more about the connection and honouring the ancestral fire, and working with the wood to coax out the fire, and like the hand drill I find this method quite profound in that it's just you and the wood and your hands, and when kneeling it's as it you're praying and bowing to the fire gods :)
With the knowledge and right materials and honing of the technique, the fire plough can be a very effective technique, and unlike the bow drill there is little technology, and unlike the hand drill there is less risk of damaging your hands with blisters. It's becoming my favourite method (apart from the fire churn!)
A Few Pointers:
Wood Combinations:
The combinations that I have been successful with in the UK are:
The same wood for blade and hearth does seem to work well and so you can make a set from the same branch, and many of my sets are made from one branch.
In other parts of the world these woods are known to be successful : Linden/ Basswood (Tilia same family as UK Lime); Cottonwood (Populuus - try other trees of that species e.g. Quaking Aspen); Sotol; Malayan cherry; Incense Cedar; Yellow Mombin Coastal hibiscus (Hibiscus tiliaceus) ; Kaikomako; Māhoe; Embaúba. Buckeye/Horse chestnut is supposed to work but I've not tried that yet (tho it is not uk native)
I have observed if the wood is too soft or punky I seem to dig through it too fast, so the dust doesn't get a chance to get hot enough. Also, I find it best if the wood is seasoned (not green); I find the wood needs at least 2 weeks drying if collected when still green and needs to be VERY DRY before use.
The combinations that I have been successful with in the UK are:
- Lime blade on Lime base (Tilia genus same as Linden and Basswood) - this produces a strong ember relatively easily and is now my favourite combination I find this the most effective and can now coax an ember in under 20secs using this combination! I now recommend this for learning.
- Willow or Poplar blade on Lime - Willow and Poplar work on Lime too but not as well as Lime. Some use Hazel on lime but I've not had success with Hazel on Lime myself.
- Hazel or Poplar or Lime blade on Poplar base (Populus, same genus as cottonwood) - Poplar works well on Poplar. Lime and Hazel also work. Ash can work too but not as easy as the others. I recommend Poplar/Poplar for learning.
- Lime, Willow, Elder (sambuca nigra), Ivy on Ivy (hedera helix) - this can work well and produce a good strong ember but it does seem to depend on the ivy and moisture levels as Ivy does suck up moisture - sometimes it works well but other times I’ve really struggled with it even with a set which has worked previously.
- Lime and Poplar on Clematis - Clematis can work as a hearth board with Lime and Poplar as the blade (I haven't had success with Hazel or Willow as the blade)
- Lime on Willow - Lime seems to work well on Willow but not 100% of the time :) I have also succeeded with Elder also seems on Willow but needs a few more tries to see how consistent it is.
- Willow on Willow - I had some success with Willow/Willow but it is more finickity than the above woods as it is a softer wood and you can dig through too quickly. I've had very mixed results and have now stopped using Willow on Willow. I don't really recommend it. I've had success with Hazel on Willow a couple of times but again not consistent.
The same wood for blade and hearth does seem to work well and so you can make a set from the same branch, and many of my sets are made from one branch.
In other parts of the world these woods are known to be successful : Linden/ Basswood (Tilia same family as UK Lime); Cottonwood (Populuus - try other trees of that species e.g. Quaking Aspen); Sotol; Malayan cherry; Incense Cedar; Yellow Mombin Coastal hibiscus (Hibiscus tiliaceus) ; Kaikomako; Māhoe; Embaúba. Buckeye/Horse chestnut is supposed to work but I've not tried that yet (tho it is not uk native)
I have observed if the wood is too soft or punky I seem to dig through it too fast, so the dust doesn't get a chance to get hot enough. Also, I find it best if the wood is seasoned (not green); I find the wood needs at least 2 weeks drying if collected when still green and needs to be VERY DRY before use.
I do think I was lucky on the piece of Poplar I originally chose, it was as if my hand was guided to it - I had used it 2 years earlier and I couldn't get past the polishing - I guess it wasn't seasoned/dry enough! What I first observed with the Hazel and Poplar set, is that the dust was (sometimes) fibrous \ fluffy (see photo) and so easily rolled along the board; sticking to each other and rolling underneath the stick so getting heated up with the friction and then igniting. But since then , I've also had success without the fibrous dust! I've observed The fibrous dust more on split wood (rough fibres) rather than shaved wood (smoothed fibres.)
I have been able to coax an ember from a slightly damp piece of wood, by spending more time, going at a slower speed then speeding up. It took about 6 mins in all including a couple of mins breathing life into the ember, it needed a lot more coaxing and TLC then dry seasoned wood but was possible, but not reccomended! (see the Blog post here.)
I have been able to coax an ember from a slightly damp piece of wood, by spending more time, going at a slower speed then speeding up. It took about 6 mins in all including a couple of mins breathing life into the ember, it needed a lot more coaxing and TLC then dry seasoned wood but was possible, but not reccomended! (see the Blog post here.)
The Base Board
The part of the tree that is used for the base can make a difference with the plough, I'm guessing due to the density and make up of the wood. I've found smaller Poplar branches don't work well and branches with a diameter of at least 8cm work better. Though with Tilia, the branch was 5cm in diameter and works well.
I prefer to carve the base board at least 5 cms in width and preferably a few cms in depth, I don't want it too narrow or too wide, and I prefer it long enough so I can comfortably kneel on it and stop it from moving (or if short, anchor it using a heavy object). I carve it flat on both the bottom (so it doesn't rock and is firm on the ground) and on the top and preferably no knots (so it is easy to push and pull the stick over the surface.) You don't want the board moving as that can affect the pressure and the dust can jump all over the place. I prefer the wood to be fairly thick so I can get quite a few attempts out of one piece. Too thin and I'll soon work through the wood.
Each time, before I start, I shave the top / sides of the groove flat so there is only a very shallow groove, otherwise a deep groove will slow down the ploughing motion. It seems to work best if most of the friction is at the bottom and not at the sides of the blade.
I prefer to carve wood curls (see picture) at the end of the groove so the dust can collect together and not fall off the board (I find this really helps. ) Also I keep dust left over from previous attempts and pile that at the end as well. I try to keep dust from all attempts as it's useful for when I get an ember!)
The part of the tree that is used for the base can make a difference with the plough, I'm guessing due to the density and make up of the wood. I've found smaller Poplar branches don't work well and branches with a diameter of at least 8cm work better. Though with Tilia, the branch was 5cm in diameter and works well.
I prefer to carve the base board at least 5 cms in width and preferably a few cms in depth, I don't want it too narrow or too wide, and I prefer it long enough so I can comfortably kneel on it and stop it from moving (or if short, anchor it using a heavy object). I carve it flat on both the bottom (so it doesn't rock and is firm on the ground) and on the top and preferably no knots (so it is easy to push and pull the stick over the surface.) You don't want the board moving as that can affect the pressure and the dust can jump all over the place. I prefer the wood to be fairly thick so I can get quite a few attempts out of one piece. Too thin and I'll soon work through the wood.
Each time, before I start, I shave the top / sides of the groove flat so there is only a very shallow groove, otherwise a deep groove will slow down the ploughing motion. It seems to work best if most of the friction is at the bottom and not at the sides of the blade.
I prefer to carve wood curls (see picture) at the end of the groove so the dust can collect together and not fall off the board (I find this really helps. ) Also I keep dust left over from previous attempts and pile that at the end as well. I try to keep dust from all attempts as it's useful for when I get an ember!)
The Blade \ The Plough \ The Stick
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Previously I was using larger thickness sticks carved to a flat blade at an angle at the end, so the blade was about 3 to 4 cms long and carved thin (5mm.) I found this is inefficient for me. What I found worked for me, is a blade about 15mm in diameter (much like you'd use for a bow drill spindle) which I remove the bark at the end and carve it to an angled blade about 8mm to 10mm in thickness. See pictures for an idea of how I carve the blade. The blade will find it's own shape once you start ploughing. You don't want it too thin as it will just carve through the base too quickly. Too wide, and it'll be harder to get the pressure.
I have recently refined the blade and now prefer it to be 1cm or so long - I alternate turning the stick over so that I have an angled blade on each side, which stops the blade becoming too long, and having too much wood in contact (see 2nd picture.) I now find it works best if the end of the blade is square (not pointed) as this will push the dust more forward rather than off to the side. (Sometimes though I do use a narrow angle and have more of the blade in contact.) I also find it better if the blade in contact with the base is flat - not v shaped as that will dig deeper into the wood. Before each attempt, it's good to make any alterations to the blade as necessary e.g. if it has got shorter and I'm now into the thicker part of the stick then I carve more away to thin it out again. |
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Length wise - I prefer it to be at least 30cm in length . If you have large hands then you may want a longer stick. I don't want it too long otherwise it may get in the way (poke myself in the chest\face!) Using the overhand grip, I've found it works better if the end of my fingers are at least 5cmish away from the tip, you don't want to be too close or too far away. Also I want to allow for the blade to get shorter over time, so I want to ensure the blade is long enough otherwise I'll be replacing it frequently. I have got through quite a lot of hazel rods in the last couple of weeks!
I prefer the blade to be straight otherwise I won't be able to plough in a straight back and forth motion and I remove any knobbles/bumps etc so it is comfortable to grip (I find a comfortable blade makes a huge difference!)
I prefer the blade to be straight otherwise I won't be able to plough in a straight back and forth motion and I remove any knobbles/bumps etc so it is comfortable to grip (I find a comfortable blade makes a huge difference!)
One of my fire plow sets. This Hazel blade is 30cm in length and 15mm in diameter and carved to a flat angled point about 8mm to 10mm in thickness.
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The Hand Grip and Posture
I use the "Polynesian" (as I call it) or "overhand" hand grip as can be seen in my clips, as I can apply good pressure and use my shoulders and body weight more rather than just my arms. As can be seen in this clip, I kneel with the board between my knees to anchor it (or use a heavy log\stone). I've found if I'm too close I'm using my arms too much and it's so much harder and I soon tire. I've found it's better if I position myself so I'm far enough away that my body weight is behind and above the blade, and it can help if it feels like you will fall forward. |
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When positioned like this and combined with the overhand grip, I find bouncing on my haunches can really help with the momentum, and I sometimes find myself doing this anyway, without thinking about it - it kinda helps propel your shoulders and arms forward and so you have more bodyweight and because I'm not solely using my arms it is far less tiring and I can go far longer and apply more pressure. Though you may look like a nodding dog as in this clip :)
I've also found that if you're further away you can raise off your haunches and really put your body weight behind it, and this really helps with the pressure and is less tiring. I find it difficult and tiring just using my arms, and that's where I was going wrong. It does take a bit of practice to get used to this posture, but it really has been a game changer for me. And downward pressure (as well as speed) is key to succeeding - you need to apply as much pressure as possible.
I've also found that if you're further away you can raise off your haunches and really put your body weight behind it, and this really helps with the pressure and is less tiring. I find it difficult and tiring just using my arms, and that's where I was going wrong. It does take a bit of practice to get used to this posture, but it really has been a game changer for me. And downward pressure (as well as speed) is key to succeeding - you need to apply as much pressure as possible.
Environment
Practice in a sheltered spot. Wind is not good for the plough as the dust is exposed on the board and the wind just blows it away!! As with all other methods, rain and water is not good either but I also find it can be more difficult when there is a lot of moisture in the air. I find it best if the board rests flat and does not wobble or move around, and best to be horizontal rather than pointing up or down hill (tho some prefer it slanting downwards slightly), and be comfortable in the kneeling position. If you place the board on a bench you could do it in a sitting position (I've not tried that yet but it should work if you straddle the bench and are far enough back so you can put your body weight behind - that's one to try!)
Practice in a sheltered spot. Wind is not good for the plough as the dust is exposed on the board and the wind just blows it away!! As with all other methods, rain and water is not good either but I also find it can be more difficult when there is a lot of moisture in the air. I find it best if the board rests flat and does not wobble or move around, and best to be horizontal rather than pointing up or down hill (tho some prefer it slanting downwards slightly), and be comfortable in the kneeling position. If you place the board on a bench you could do it in a sitting position (I've not tried that yet but it should work if you straddle the bench and are far enough back so you can put your body weight behind - that's one to try!)
The Method
The videos demonstrate the methods well. I angle the stick so the flat end of the stick moves along the board, pushing and pulling it about 8-10cmish along the board, starting and finishing in roughly the same place. I prefer not to have too long a track\groove otherwise the track will have time to cool and too short- I find I lose momentum by constantly changing direction and it can be more tiring. If everything comes together, then it can be possible to tease out an ember in under a minute of ploughing, contrary to a lot of other posts I have read (it may just take a few attempts!)
To start off, I don't carve out a groove, I just start by pushing and pulling the stick along - if it keeps getting stuck then I use my knife to smooth out the knobbly bits. If they are just little bumps then I should be able to firmly push through them with the stick. Avoid knots! If it is a new groove, then after a few goes of marking out the groove, I'll then carve up wood shavings at the end of the groove so the dust can collect together where it can form an ember. Sometimes, it can take a fair bit of effort to get through the polishing on a new groove even with soft woods - when learning you may be tempted to give up but persevere, rough up the wood if needed - once you are through the polishing, it gets easier!
For soft woods, I prefer to use a low angle to start, so more of the blade is in contact to bed in the groove without carving deep, after a while and once the dust pile is building up I will steepen the angle of the blade (less surface contact.) This will focus the friction in a smaller surface area of the blade and I will then apply more speed (the steeper angle can dig deep quickly so I tend to just finish with a few strokes of the steeper angle).
I find I need to exert as much downward pressure as possible. I find maintaining a steady rhythm for about 20seconds and as more smoke appears I apply more pressure and increase speed and go for as long as I can still applying pressure, maintaining a rhythm. I try not to be tempted to shorten the strokes too much as this can work against me.
I think both pressure and speed is important - if I see smoke coming from the dust, I try to go for a bit longer and try not to smash into the dust pile, and increase speed on the final few strokes. Changing the angle of the stick can help and is easier to do with a longer stick. As I mentioned earlier, raising off your haunches (if kneeling and if you are far enough back) can really help with the downward pressure.
If there isn't an ember, I take a short rest before trying again! I may need to trim the sides of the groove to flatten it a bit, and check the blade to see if that needs a trim, and check my posture and hand grip.
If I stop creating dust, but there's still smoke, then there may be polishing (especially when starting a new groove), so I rough up the groove with my knife a bit and also rough up the blade. Sometimes I've stripped the blade right back to fresh wood which has helped. The polishing also indicates I'm not applying enough pressure.
If you only have light brown dust then it may be that you aren't applying enough pressure or the wood is too soft. If the wood is too soft I don't think it will work however much pressure you apply as you'll just keep creating more dust before it can get hot enough (though I could be proven wrong!) If the dust is too chunky you may be applying too much pressure or speed so experiment!
You just need to practice and experiment, it may take several weeks of practice before things fall in place.
I find that at times, I need to experiment with speed and pressure. Sometimes a steady speed is key (e.g. with Willow on Ivy or with slightly damp woods) and at other times I need to apply lots of speed. It's all about experimenting. And pressure seems to be key!!
How do I know when I have an ember ? Good question! When I see the dust darkening and piling up and there's lots of smoke then I try to keep going until smoke starts to rise from the dust pile which is an indication I have an ember (I try to go a bit longer if I can and have a final sprint!) I may be creating so much smoke that it may look like the pile is smoking but once I stop and things settle down, the smoke clears and I may just have a dust pile! Sometimes once things have settled down after stopping, the smoke is quite noticeable from the dust pile, other times there has just been a faint wisp (which needs some gentle coaxing) or there is nothing (which for me is mostly due to the dust being too coarse\chunky which may be due to pressure\speed.)
Sometimes it helps by gently turning over the dust pile (if there is only a gentle whisp) as the ember could be trapped underneath the dust pile and doing this helps get air to the ember.
The video below shows how effective the fire plough can be - the ember was coaxed in 13.5 seconds :)
The videos demonstrate the methods well. I angle the stick so the flat end of the stick moves along the board, pushing and pulling it about 8-10cmish along the board, starting and finishing in roughly the same place. I prefer not to have too long a track\groove otherwise the track will have time to cool and too short- I find I lose momentum by constantly changing direction and it can be more tiring. If everything comes together, then it can be possible to tease out an ember in under a minute of ploughing, contrary to a lot of other posts I have read (it may just take a few attempts!)
To start off, I don't carve out a groove, I just start by pushing and pulling the stick along - if it keeps getting stuck then I use my knife to smooth out the knobbly bits. If they are just little bumps then I should be able to firmly push through them with the stick. Avoid knots! If it is a new groove, then after a few goes of marking out the groove, I'll then carve up wood shavings at the end of the groove so the dust can collect together where it can form an ember. Sometimes, it can take a fair bit of effort to get through the polishing on a new groove even with soft woods - when learning you may be tempted to give up but persevere, rough up the wood if needed - once you are through the polishing, it gets easier!
For soft woods, I prefer to use a low angle to start, so more of the blade is in contact to bed in the groove without carving deep, after a while and once the dust pile is building up I will steepen the angle of the blade (less surface contact.) This will focus the friction in a smaller surface area of the blade and I will then apply more speed (the steeper angle can dig deep quickly so I tend to just finish with a few strokes of the steeper angle).
I find I need to exert as much downward pressure as possible. I find maintaining a steady rhythm for about 20seconds and as more smoke appears I apply more pressure and increase speed and go for as long as I can still applying pressure, maintaining a rhythm. I try not to be tempted to shorten the strokes too much as this can work against me.
I think both pressure and speed is important - if I see smoke coming from the dust, I try to go for a bit longer and try not to smash into the dust pile, and increase speed on the final few strokes. Changing the angle of the stick can help and is easier to do with a longer stick. As I mentioned earlier, raising off your haunches (if kneeling and if you are far enough back) can really help with the downward pressure.
If there isn't an ember, I take a short rest before trying again! I may need to trim the sides of the groove to flatten it a bit, and check the blade to see if that needs a trim, and check my posture and hand grip.
If I stop creating dust, but there's still smoke, then there may be polishing (especially when starting a new groove), so I rough up the groove with my knife a bit and also rough up the blade. Sometimes I've stripped the blade right back to fresh wood which has helped. The polishing also indicates I'm not applying enough pressure.
If you only have light brown dust then it may be that you aren't applying enough pressure or the wood is too soft. If the wood is too soft I don't think it will work however much pressure you apply as you'll just keep creating more dust before it can get hot enough (though I could be proven wrong!) If the dust is too chunky you may be applying too much pressure or speed so experiment!
You just need to practice and experiment, it may take several weeks of practice before things fall in place.
I find that at times, I need to experiment with speed and pressure. Sometimes a steady speed is key (e.g. with Willow on Ivy or with slightly damp woods) and at other times I need to apply lots of speed. It's all about experimenting. And pressure seems to be key!!
How do I know when I have an ember ? Good question! When I see the dust darkening and piling up and there's lots of smoke then I try to keep going until smoke starts to rise from the dust pile which is an indication I have an ember (I try to go a bit longer if I can and have a final sprint!) I may be creating so much smoke that it may look like the pile is smoking but once I stop and things settle down, the smoke clears and I may just have a dust pile! Sometimes once things have settled down after stopping, the smoke is quite noticeable from the dust pile, other times there has just been a faint wisp (which needs some gentle coaxing) or there is nothing (which for me is mostly due to the dust being too coarse\chunky which may be due to pressure\speed.)
Sometimes it helps by gently turning over the dust pile (if there is only a gentle whisp) as the ember could be trapped underneath the dust pile and doing this helps get air to the ember.
The video below shows how effective the fire plough can be - the ember was coaxed in 13.5 seconds :)
The Ember
From my experiences so far with the fire plough, the ember can quite different to the hand drill/bow drill and can be more delicate especially if you have fluffy fibrous dust (see picture .) Many of my successful attempts have been quite noticeable in that the smoke has been puffering from the dust pile. A few embers have been the opposite. Once the smoke from the ploughing had settled there was only a faint wisp of smoke which I could easily have discounted but with some encouragement I breathed life into the dust (I used the end of the stick to gently hold the dust down so it wouldn't blow away) and eventually an ember emerged - because the dust was so fibrous it could easily have burnt out. I try to add as much dust as I can (but not to suffocate it) to build up the pile so the ember has plenty of fuel and won't burn out before I can add it to the tinder.
Sometimes, when there has just been a wisp, the ember has gone out. I think this is due to
a)stopping too soon which is why I try to continue for a bit longer and really ramp up the speed when I think there could be an ember (without smashing up the dust pile!)
b) the dust has been too chunky (which may be due to speed\pressure)
From my experiences so far with the fire plough, the ember can quite different to the hand drill/bow drill and can be more delicate especially if you have fluffy fibrous dust (see picture .) Many of my successful attempts have been quite noticeable in that the smoke has been puffering from the dust pile. A few embers have been the opposite. Once the smoke from the ploughing had settled there was only a faint wisp of smoke which I could easily have discounted but with some encouragement I breathed life into the dust (I used the end of the stick to gently hold the dust down so it wouldn't blow away) and eventually an ember emerged - because the dust was so fibrous it could easily have burnt out. I try to add as much dust as I can (but not to suffocate it) to build up the pile so the ember has plenty of fuel and won't burn out before I can add it to the tinder.
Sometimes, when there has just been a wisp, the ember has gone out. I think this is due to
a)stopping too soon which is why I try to continue for a bit longer and really ramp up the speed when I think there could be an ember (without smashing up the dust pile!)
b) the dust has been too chunky (which may be due to speed\pressure)
Taking the Ember to the Tinder Bundle
Once I have the ember, I need to carefully move it onto the tinder bundle. This isn't as easy as with the bow drill \ hand drill where the ember forms on an ember tray, and I could quite easily lose the ember at this point!
As I mentioned above the ember can be quite delicate, and it's best to leave the ember for a while. There should be plenty of dust on the board which I can add to it. Carefully wafting it a little \ blowing on it, will help it develop, I want a strong ember before attempting to place it on the tinder pile. I could also add some extender (e.g. willowherb seeds heads) ontop to make it even larger. The last thing I want after all the effort, is for the ember to go out or to get lost!
Look after the baby fire! Feed it!
I've used the tip of a knife to carefully pickup the ember and place it onto the tinder bundle, which I have next to the board, but this can be precarious. I've also used the knife to loosen the ember from the board and put a thin piece of wood over the top and tipped the board over, and then added it to the bundle. A safer option is to place the bundle (with ember extender) upside down ontop of the ember and then rotate the whole thing over so the bundle is now underneath and the board ontop so when I remove the board the ember is now in the bundle! You just don't want to lose that ember after all that effort!
Once I have the ember, I need to carefully move it onto the tinder bundle. This isn't as easy as with the bow drill \ hand drill where the ember forms on an ember tray, and I could quite easily lose the ember at this point!
As I mentioned above the ember can be quite delicate, and it's best to leave the ember for a while. There should be plenty of dust on the board which I can add to it. Carefully wafting it a little \ blowing on it, will help it develop, I want a strong ember before attempting to place it on the tinder pile. I could also add some extender (e.g. willowherb seeds heads) ontop to make it even larger. The last thing I want after all the effort, is for the ember to go out or to get lost!
Look after the baby fire! Feed it!
I've used the tip of a knife to carefully pickup the ember and place it onto the tinder bundle, which I have next to the board, but this can be precarious. I've also used the knife to loosen the ember from the board and put a thin piece of wood over the top and tipped the board over, and then added it to the bundle. A safer option is to place the bundle (with ember extender) upside down ontop of the ember and then rotate the whole thing over so the bundle is now underneath and the board ontop so when I remove the board the ember is now in the bundle! You just don't want to lose that ember after all that effort!
Welcoming the Ancestral Fire!
Like with all other methods, once I have added the ember to the bundle, I then breathe life into the ember, and breathe it into fire!!
Blessings on the ancestral fire!
Like with all other methods, once I have added the ember to the bundle, I then breathe life into the ember, and breathe it into fire!!
Blessings on the ancestral fire!
Just give it a go!
It can be a very frustrating method to learn, but it is very satisfying when you finally see the smoke continue to rise from the dust pile. This is a simple and humbling friction method but takes takes perseverance, a lot of practice, a lot of patience, refinement of technique, a bit of trial and error, maybe a bit of luck and a bit of zen :) You don't need to be super muscly , and if things aren't working review your technique, your materials, your position and posture.
Good luck on your friction journey!
Good luck on your friction journey!
Fire Plough Instructional Video
The below video demonstrates some of the things I've mentioned on this page.
I also share hints and tips on my IG and Youtube channels.
The below video demonstrates some of the things I've mentioned on this page.
I also share hints and tips on my IG and Youtube channels.