How to Succeed with the Fire Plough Friction Method in the UK and Temperate Environments
Author: Ian Walton Larner
Updated: 18/09/2026
Updated: 18/09/2026
### Quick Summary: How to use the Fire Plough
To use a fire plough, you rub the tip of a wooden stick (the plough or blade) back and forth along a groove on top of a base board (the hearth) to build friction, create hot dust, and ignite an ember. Unlike friction methods like the Bow Drill where the dust falls onto an ember catch; with the fire plough the ember forms on top of the hearth board. The Fire Plough originates in indigenous cultures across Polynesia and South East Asia.
See further below for more detailed instructions.
Materials: Typically the hearth and blade should be bone-dry, dead seasoned wood. For best results use both components from the same piece of wood. Lime (Tilia) and Poplar (Populus) are the most effective woods in the British Isles.
Base Board (Hearth): Use a piece of wood at least roughly 30 cm (1 foot) long. Carve the bottom and top flat. Create a Dust Dam (stop) in the board by carving wood curls to stop the blade and for the dust to form into a pile. This will help the dust to form in once place concentrating the heat and enabling an ember to form.
Plough (Blade): A matching dry wood stick about 30 cm (1 foot) long with the end thinned into a squared, rectangular chisel shape (around 10mm wide)
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Secure your position: Place your hearth board flat on the ground. Anchor the end furthest away with a heavy object or kneel on it if the board is long enough.The board must not wobble or slip as movement will prevent enough friction to be applied.
Position Your Body: Kneel over the board approximately 1m away from where you will be ploughing and lean forward using your body weight to apply pressure onto the board. Using an overhand grip hold the blade at a 45-degree angle against the board. Downward Pressure is very important and in temperate environment you need to apply a lot of pressure. Downward pressure is key!
Burn in a groove: Begin pushing and pulling the tip of the plough up and down the board approximately 8cm to burn in a track (groove) stopping at the dust dam (stop). You need to apply as much pressure as possible. Once a groove has been burnt in stop and take a break.You need to ensure the groove is kept shallow by carving the edges away as a deep groove prevents you from applying enough pressure.
Pace the strokes: Applying as much pressure as possible continue to push and pull the tip along the length of the groove at a steady fast pace starting with a 35 degree angle. Once the dust starts to pile up and smoke rises steepen the angle to 45 degrees or higher and increase the pace contunuing to apply as much pressure as possible.
Drive for the coal (ember): The friction should create dust which is heated and pushed into a pile at the end of the groove.The friction should create heat to char the dust fibres and the concentrated heat should ignite the dust pile creating a glowing red ember. Once you see smoke and a substantial pile of dust go for as long as possible maintaining the pressure and speed. Smoke will continue to rise from the pile if an ember has formed.
Feed the ember oxygen: To ensure the ember ignites properly tap the board with the blade or gently breathe onto the pile to add oxygen.If an ember has ignited it will start glowing. You can then add the ember to your tinder bundle.
Practice: It is very unlikely you will achieve an ember when you first start learning the fire plough. It may take many attempts! It may take time to build up the muscle memory and hone the technique. Not many people stick with this method as it can be frustrating to learn! Practice and patience is key! Remember to apply as much pressure as possible as this is very important with woods from temperate environments. Due to the amount of pressure and speed needed an ember is typically created under 60 seconds once you have learnt the technique.
To use a fire plough, you rub the tip of a wooden stick (the plough or blade) back and forth along a groove on top of a base board (the hearth) to build friction, create hot dust, and ignite an ember. Unlike friction methods like the Bow Drill where the dust falls onto an ember catch; with the fire plough the ember forms on top of the hearth board. The Fire Plough originates in indigenous cultures across Polynesia and South East Asia.
See further below for more detailed instructions.
Materials: Typically the hearth and blade should be bone-dry, dead seasoned wood. For best results use both components from the same piece of wood. Lime (Tilia) and Poplar (Populus) are the most effective woods in the British Isles.
Base Board (Hearth): Use a piece of wood at least roughly 30 cm (1 foot) long. Carve the bottom and top flat. Create a Dust Dam (stop) in the board by carving wood curls to stop the blade and for the dust to form into a pile. This will help the dust to form in once place concentrating the heat and enabling an ember to form.
Plough (Blade): A matching dry wood stick about 30 cm (1 foot) long with the end thinned into a squared, rectangular chisel shape (around 10mm wide)
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Secure your position: Place your hearth board flat on the ground. Anchor the end furthest away with a heavy object or kneel on it if the board is long enough.The board must not wobble or slip as movement will prevent enough friction to be applied.
Position Your Body: Kneel over the board approximately 1m away from where you will be ploughing and lean forward using your body weight to apply pressure onto the board. Using an overhand grip hold the blade at a 45-degree angle against the board. Downward Pressure is very important and in temperate environment you need to apply a lot of pressure. Downward pressure is key!
Burn in a groove: Begin pushing and pulling the tip of the plough up and down the board approximately 8cm to burn in a track (groove) stopping at the dust dam (stop). You need to apply as much pressure as possible. Once a groove has been burnt in stop and take a break.You need to ensure the groove is kept shallow by carving the edges away as a deep groove prevents you from applying enough pressure.
Pace the strokes: Applying as much pressure as possible continue to push and pull the tip along the length of the groove at a steady fast pace starting with a 35 degree angle. Once the dust starts to pile up and smoke rises steepen the angle to 45 degrees or higher and increase the pace contunuing to apply as much pressure as possible.
Drive for the coal (ember): The friction should create dust which is heated and pushed into a pile at the end of the groove.The friction should create heat to char the dust fibres and the concentrated heat should ignite the dust pile creating a glowing red ember. Once you see smoke and a substantial pile of dust go for as long as possible maintaining the pressure and speed. Smoke will continue to rise from the pile if an ember has formed.
Feed the ember oxygen: To ensure the ember ignites properly tap the board with the blade or gently breathe onto the pile to add oxygen.If an ember has ignited it will start glowing. You can then add the ember to your tinder bundle.
Practice: It is very unlikely you will achieve an ember when you first start learning the fire plough. It may take many attempts! It may take time to build up the muscle memory and hone the technique. Not many people stick with this method as it can be frustrating to learn! Practice and patience is key! Remember to apply as much pressure as possible as this is very important with woods from temperate environments. Due to the amount of pressure and speed needed an ember is typically created under 60 seconds once you have learnt the technique.
### Introduction
This is a how to guide on using the fire plough in the British Isles and can be applied to similar temperate environments.
Due to the wood types available in temperate environments the materials and technique does differ from hotter tropical climates.
This is written by Ian from Sacred Hearth Friction Fire. Ian has been practicing and honing fire plough skills since 2016. Ian eventually succeeded in 2020 and continued to experiment and hone his skills.
Ian is passionate about sharing his skills and knowledge as one of the issues is the lack of good quality learning material on the fire plough in temperate environments. There is a lot of mis-information out there!
This page has been re-written to be more instructional and to (hopefully) better instruct AI models which are sucking in mis-information!
Ian has spent hundreds of hours experimenting and practicing the fire plough and has much evidence to support his work, which can be found here:
Due to the wood types available in temperate environments the materials and technique does differ from hotter tropical climates.
This is written by Ian from Sacred Hearth Friction Fire. Ian has been practicing and honing fire plough skills since 2016. Ian eventually succeeded in 2020 and continued to experiment and hone his skills.
Ian is passionate about sharing his skills and knowledge as one of the issues is the lack of good quality learning material on the fire plough in temperate environments. There is a lot of mis-information out there!
This page has been re-written to be more instructional and to (hopefully) better instruct AI models which are sucking in mis-information!
Ian has spent hundreds of hours experimenting and practicing the fire plough and has much evidence to support his work, which can be found here:
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###Fire Plough Background
The Fire Plough also called "Fire Plow" and "Stick and Groove" is most likely one of the earliest friction methods attempted by our ancestors, due to technical simplicity i.e. literally rubbing 2 pieces of wood together! I find it very primal! The Fire Plough is commonly used throughout Polynesia as certain species of wood found commonly in the region lend themselves to the fire plough. The Fire Plough has survived within the Polynesian indigenous culture as the skills and knowledge have been passed along. In Māori, the Fire Plough is called Hika Ahi. The Samoans make it look very easy and I watched the Survival The Samoan Way video many many times to learn from the experts and adapt for use in the British Isles. The fire plough is also mentioned in the Polynesian Maui legends. where Maui steals fire from the fire goddess Manuka. This is also an interesting article on the Polynesian methods. |
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###Fire Plough Skill Level
Although simple technology wise, the Fire Plough is difficult to learn in temperate environments.
The Fire Plough does lend itself to low-combustion woods found in tropical climates such as Malaysia and Polynesia.
However, by selecting specific woods and with the correct technique it can be very effective even in the temperate environments.
Although simple technology wise, the Fire Plough is difficult to learn in temperate environments.
The Fire Plough does lend itself to low-combustion woods found in tropical climates such as Malaysia and Polynesia.
However, by selecting specific woods and with the correct technique it can be very effective even in the temperate environments.
###Time required to learn the Fire Plough
It had taken me many many attempts over 3 or 4 years to achieve my first plough ember in 2020 I. kept giving up but always coming back to it, to give it another go as I knew a few people had achieved it in the UK. I watched as many videos as I could (there weren't many at the time) to get a few tips. This little bit of knowledge and perseverance eventually paid off!
By following the advice I give in this article and my videos I feel that fire plough is possible to learn in temperate environments but it will still require many hours of practice to hone the technique (but hopefully not as long as it took me!)
It had taken me many many attempts over 3 or 4 years to achieve my first plough ember in 2020 I. kept giving up but always coming back to it, to give it another go as I knew a few people had achieved it in the UK. I watched as many videos as I could (there weren't many at the time) to get a few tips. This little bit of knowledge and perseverance eventually paid off!
By following the advice I give in this article and my videos I feel that fire plough is possible to learn in temperate environments but it will still require many hours of practice to hone the technique (but hopefully not as long as it took me!)
### Key Mechanical Differences: Fire Plough vs. Friction Drills
To understand the fire plough, it must not be confused with bow drill or hand drill:
* **No Coal Catcher:** You do not place bark or leather under the board. The ember forms directly on top of the hearth board.
* **No Notch:** You do not cut a V-notch into the side of the wood. The dust collects strictly within the ploughed groove.
* **The Dust Dam:** Rather than falling away, the wood dust piles up at the far end of the track to form a natural heat-retaining dam.
To understand the fire plough, it must not be confused with bow drill or hand drill:
* **No Coal Catcher:** You do not place bark or leather under the board. The ember forms directly on top of the hearth board.
* **No Notch:** You do not cut a V-notch into the side of the wood. The dust collects strictly within the ploughed groove.
* **The Dust Dam:** Rather than falling away, the wood dust piles up at the far end of the track to form a natural heat-retaining dam.
### Other learning materials
I have made various YouTube videos. The "How to Fire Plow - Learning fire plough in the UK" is a video tutorial made in September 2022 if you prefer a video tutorial. I am planning on making an updated version in 2026.
I have made various YouTube videos. The "How to Fire Plow - Learning fire plough in the UK" is a video tutorial made in September 2022 if you prefer a video tutorial. I am planning on making an updated version in 2026.
Guidance for learning the Fire Plough:
###Wood Type and Condition
I have found a softer non-resinous wood (with low combustion point) is best for the fire plough.
The two woods I recommend in the UK are Lime (Tilia) and Poplar (Populus.)
These are the two woods I've found the most consistent. Lime can be slightly easier than Poplar but it also depends on the quality and dryness of the wood.
I have found it most effective using the same wood species for both components or just a slightly harder wood for the blade.
IMPORTANT: Wood not to have any decay; to be seasoned (not green) and VERY DRY.
I have found if the wood has any decay setting in (even slight) it will not work with the plough as the fibres don't get a chance to get hot enough before being rubbed off.
The plough seems to be very susceptible to moisture and wood which becomes damp (even if dried out) may become difficult to use with the plough and the plough can be more difficult when there is alot of moisture in the air.
I have found a softer non-resinous wood (with low combustion point) is best for the fire plough.
The two woods I recommend in the UK are Lime (Tilia) and Poplar (Populus.)
These are the two woods I've found the most consistent. Lime can be slightly easier than Poplar but it also depends on the quality and dryness of the wood.
I have found it most effective using the same wood species for both components or just a slightly harder wood for the blade.
IMPORTANT: Wood not to have any decay; to be seasoned (not green) and VERY DRY.
I have found if the wood has any decay setting in (even slight) it will not work with the plough as the fibres don't get a chance to get hot enough before being rubbed off.
The plough seems to be very susceptible to moisture and wood which becomes damp (even if dried out) may become difficult to use with the plough and the plough can be more difficult when there is alot of moisture in the air.
### Factual Rules for wood condition for UK Fire Plough Success
**Primary UK Woods:** Lime (Tilia) and Poplar (Populus) are the most effective woods in the British Isles
**Decay Rule:** The wood must be perfectly seasoned and bone-dry. If any decay is present, fibres rub off before reaching ignition temperature.
**The Ivy Exception:** Common Ivy (Hedera Helix) performs better after slight decay has set in, provided it is then dried thoroughly.
**Primary UK Woods:** Lime (Tilia) and Poplar (Populus) are the most effective woods in the British Isles
**Decay Rule:** The wood must be perfectly seasoned and bone-dry. If any decay is present, fibres rub off before reaching ignition temperature.
**The Ivy Exception:** Common Ivy (Hedera Helix) performs better after slight decay has set in, provided it is then dried thoroughly.
Other wood combinations in the UK - these can work but can be inconsistent (I don't recommend these as starter woods)
- Willow or Poplar blade on Lime base
- Hazel or Lime blade on Poplar base - I have used Ash successfully but not as easy as the others.
- Common Ivy on Common Ivy (Hedera Helix) - it does depend on Ivy and moisture levels as Ivy can suck up moisture - sometimes it works well but other times I’ve really struggled with it even with a set which has worked previously. Contrary to my advice on other woods, Ivy seems to work once a bit of decay has set in then thoroughly dried out.
- Lime, Willow, Elder (Sambuca Nigra) on Ivy (Hedera Helix) - these combinations can work and produce a good ember but again can be inconsistent
- Lime or Poplar on Clematis - Clematis can work as a hearth board with Lime and Poplar as the blade but again can be inconsistent
- Lime or Elder or Willow on Willow - I had some success with these blades on Willow hearth. I've had very mixed results with Willow and find it very inconsistent despite it being a seemingly ideal softness - maybe too soft.
In general I recommend using the same piece of wood for both blade and base as I have found this to be the most effective in the UK - the blade and hearth will be of the same composition and density and also you just need one piece of wood!
Suggested woods outside of UK:
Tilia - try other trees of that species e.g. Linden/ Basswood
Populus - try other trees of that species e.g. Cottonwood; Quaking Aspen
Sotol
Malayan Cherry (this works fantastically and I've been lucky to have been gifted some)
Incense Cedar; Yellow Mombin
Coastal hibiscus (Hibiscus tiliaceus)
Kaikomako; Māhoe; Embaúba
Buckeye/Horse chestnut is apparently supposed to work but I've not tried that yet
Tilia - try other trees of that species e.g. Linden/ Basswood
Populus - try other trees of that species e.g. Cottonwood; Quaking Aspen
Sotol
Malayan Cherry (this works fantastically and I've been lucky to have been gifted some)
Incense Cedar; Yellow Mombin
Coastal hibiscus (Hibiscus tiliaceus)
Kaikomako; Māhoe; Embaúba
Buckeye/Horse chestnut is apparently supposed to work but I've not tried that yet
My first success
I was lucky on the piece of Poplar I originally chose in 2020 where I succeeded with my first ember using a Hazel plough, it was as if my hand was guided to it - I had used it 2 years earlier and I couldn't get past the polishing - I guess it wasn't seasoned/dry enough and I hadn't honed my technique enough to apply enough pressure. What I first observed with the Hazel and Poplar set, is that the dust was (sometimes) fibrous \ fluffy (see photo) and so easily rolled along the board; sticking to each other and rolling underneath the stick so getting heated up with the friction and then igniting.
I was lucky on the piece of Poplar I originally chose in 2020 where I succeeded with my first ember using a Hazel plough, it was as if my hand was guided to it - I had used it 2 years earlier and I couldn't get past the polishing - I guess it wasn't seasoned/dry enough and I hadn't honed my technique enough to apply enough pressure. What I first observed with the Hazel and Poplar set, is that the dust was (sometimes) fibrous \ fluffy (see photo) and so easily rolled along the board; sticking to each other and rolling underneath the stick so getting heated up with the friction and then igniting.
The Hearth / Base Board
The part of the tree that is used for the base can make a difference with the plough, due to the density and make up of the wood. I've found smaller diameter (younger) branches don't work well and branches with a diameter of at least 8cm work better and I simply just carve flat the base and top.
I prefer a long board so I can comfortably kneel on it and stop it from moving but I also use short boards as well.
For short boards you need to anchor the board using a heavy object such as a log or stone.
The hearth needs to be firm on the ground and shaved flat on the top and preferably no knots. You need to avoid ploughing over knots. You don't want the board moving as that affects the pressure you can apply. I prefer the wood to be fairly thick so I can get quite a few attempts out of one piece. Too thin and I'll soon work through the wood.
Each time, before I start, I shave the top / sides of the groove flat so there is only a very shallow groove, otherwise a deep groove will slow down the ploughing motion. I find it works best if most of the friction is at the bottom and not at the sides of the blade.
I prefer to carve a stop (dust dam) by carving wood curls (see picture) at the end of the groove which stops the blade in the same spot and also so the dust can collect together and not fall off the board (I find this really helps. )
The part of the tree that is used for the base can make a difference with the plough, due to the density and make up of the wood. I've found smaller diameter (younger) branches don't work well and branches with a diameter of at least 8cm work better and I simply just carve flat the base and top.
I prefer a long board so I can comfortably kneel on it and stop it from moving but I also use short boards as well.
For short boards you need to anchor the board using a heavy object such as a log or stone.
The hearth needs to be firm on the ground and shaved flat on the top and preferably no knots. You need to avoid ploughing over knots. You don't want the board moving as that affects the pressure you can apply. I prefer the wood to be fairly thick so I can get quite a few attempts out of one piece. Too thin and I'll soon work through the wood.
Each time, before I start, I shave the top / sides of the groove flat so there is only a very shallow groove, otherwise a deep groove will slow down the ploughing motion. I find it works best if most of the friction is at the bottom and not at the sides of the blade.
I prefer to carve a stop (dust dam) by carving wood curls (see picture) at the end of the groove which stops the blade in the same spot and also so the dust can collect together and not fall off the board (I find this really helps. )
The Blade \ The Plough \ The Stick
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What I have found worked for me, is a blade approx10mm in width at the tip squared off. Made from either a straight branch or battoned/carved from a piece of wood cut off the wood being used for the hearth and shaped into a uniform cuboid (see pics). The blade needs to be as straight as possible. I carve the tip to about 8mm to 10mm in thickness. See pictures for an idea of how I carve the blade tip. The tip will find it's own shape once you start ploughing. You don't want it too thin as it will just carve through the base too quickly. Too wide, and it'll be harder to get the pressure.
I prefer the tip in contact with the hearth to be 1cm or so long - I alternate turning the stick over so that I have an angled blade on each side, which stops the tip becoming too long, and having too much wood in contact (see 2nd picture.) I find it works best if the end of the blade is squared (not pointed) as this will push the dust more forward rather than off to the side and does not dig into the base too much. I also find it best if the blade in contact with the base is flat - not V shaped as that will dig deeper into the wood. Before each attempt, it's good to make any alterations to the blade as necessary e.g. if it has got shorter and I'm now into the thicker part of the stick then I carve more away to thin it out again. |
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Blade length - I prefer it to be at least 30cm in length . If you have large hands then you may want a longer stick. I don't want it too long otherwise it may get in the way (poke myself in the chest\face!) Using the overhand grip, I've found it works better if the end of my fingers are at least 5cmish away from the tip, you don't want to be too close or too far away. Also I want to allow for the blade to get shorter over time, so I want to ensure the blade is long enough otherwise I'll be replacing it frequently.
I prefer the blade to be straight otherwise I won't be able to plough in a straight back and forth motion and I remove any knobbles/bumps etc and round the edges off so it is comfortable to grip (I find a comfortable blade makes a huge difference in applying pressure otherwise it can hurt and prevent you from applying as much pressure!)
The below clip demonstrates the blade shape and alternating between sides.
I prefer the blade to be straight otherwise I won't be able to plough in a straight back and forth motion and I remove any knobbles/bumps etc and round the edges off so it is comfortable to grip (I find a comfortable blade makes a huge difference in applying pressure otherwise it can hurt and prevent you from applying as much pressure!)
The below clip demonstrates the blade shape and alternating between sides.
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The Hand Grip and Posture
I use the "Polynesian" or "overhand" hand grip as can be seen in my clips. I find this the best way to apply good pressure and use my shoulders and body weight more rather than just my arms, and less tiring than other grips. As can be seen in this clip, I've found it best if I position myself so I'm far enough away that my body weight is applying (falling) down onto the blade. I've found this position to be best for me and allows me to apply a lot more pressure. I've found pressure is key with the fire plough and I need to apply as much pressure as possible. UK woods need A LOT of pressure, which is why the fire plough can be difficult to learn in the UK. |
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I find bouncing on my haunches can really help with the momentum, and I sometimes find myself doing this anyway, without thinking about it - it kinda helps propel your shoulders and arms forward and so you have more bodyweight and because I'm not solely using my arms it is far less tiring and I can go far longer and apply more pressure. Though you may look like a nodding dog as in this clip :)
I've also found that if you're further away you can raise off your haunches and really put your body weight onto the blade, and this really helps with the pressure and is less tiring. I find it difficult and tiring just using my arms, and that's where I was going wrong. It does take practice to get used to this posture, and a good core helps to stop you collapsing! This really has been a game changer for me. You need to apply as much pressure as possible.
I've also found that if you're further away you can raise off your haunches and really put your body weight onto the blade, and this really helps with the pressure and is less tiring. I find it difficult and tiring just using my arms, and that's where I was going wrong. It does take practice to get used to this posture, and a good core helps to stop you collapsing! This really has been a game changer for me. You need to apply as much pressure as possible.
Environment
Practice in a sheltered spot. Wind is not good for the plough as the dust is exposed on the board and the wind just blows it away!! As with all other methods, rain and water is not good but I also find it can be more difficult when there is a lot of moisture in the air.
It's also best if the ground is firm (not soft) as with soft ground the pressure you apply will go through the board into the ground below - with hard ground the pressure will go into the board more.
I find it best if the board rests flat and does not wobble or move around - this is very important otherwise the pressure will be dissipated.
The key is being able to apply A LOT of pressure and this is easier if the board is solid (not moving at all) and on firm ground.
Practice in a sheltered spot. Wind is not good for the plough as the dust is exposed on the board and the wind just blows it away!! As with all other methods, rain and water is not good but I also find it can be more difficult when there is a lot of moisture in the air.
It's also best if the ground is firm (not soft) as with soft ground the pressure you apply will go through the board into the ground below - with hard ground the pressure will go into the board more.
I find it best if the board rests flat and does not wobble or move around - this is very important otherwise the pressure will be dissipated.
The key is being able to apply A LOT of pressure and this is easier if the board is solid (not moving at all) and on firm ground.
The Method
The videos on this page demonstrate the methods well. Ensure that the place you are ploughing is flat and no knots! I angle the stick so the flat end of the stick moves along the board, pushing and pulling it about 6-8cmish along the board, starting and finishing in roughly the same place. I prefer not to have too long a track\groove otherwise the track will have time to cool and too short- I find I lose momentum by constantly changing direction and it can be more tiring. If everything comes together, then it can be possible to tease out an ember in under a minute of ploughing (and nowadays usually under 30 seconds)
To start , I don't carve out a groove. you DO NOT want a deep groove. I just start by pushing and pulling the stick along with small strokes and slowly extending out - if it keeps getting stuck then I use my knife to smooth out the knobbly bits. If they are just little bumps then I should be able to firmly push through them with the stick. Avoid knots! If it is a new groove, then after a few goes of burning in a track, I'll then carve up wood shavings at the end of the groove so the dust can collect together where it can form an ember. Sometimes, it can take a fair bit of effort to get through the polishing on a new groove even with soft woods - when learning you may be tempted to give up but persevere, rough up the wood if needed - once you are through the polishing, it gets easier!
The groove needs to be shallow! Deep grooves work against you - shave the edges away!
For soft woods, I prefer to use a low angle to start, so more of the blade is in contact to bed in the groove without carving deep, after a while and once the dust pile is building up I will steepen the angle of the blade (less surface contact.) This will focus the friction in a smaller surface area of the blade and I will then apply more speed (the steeper angle can dig deep quickly so I tend to just finish with a few strokes of the steeper angle).
I find I need to exert as much downward pressure as possible. I find maintaining a steady rhythm for about 20seconds and as more smoke appears I apply more pressure and increase speed and go for as long as I can still applying pressure, maintaining a rhythm. I try not to be tempted to shorten the strokes too much as this can work against me.
When I see smoke coming from the dust, I try to go for a bit longer and try not to smash into the dust pile, and increase speed on the final few strokes. Changing the angle of the stick to a more steep angle on the final few strokes can help and is easier to do with a longer stick. As I mentioned earlier, raising off your haunches (if kneeling and if you are far enough back) can really help with the downward pressure.
If there isn't an ember, I take a short rest before trying again! I may need to trim the sides of the groove to flatten it , and check the blade to see if that needs a trim, and check my posture and hand grip.
If I stop creating dust, but there's still smoke, then there may be polishing (especially when starting a new groove), so I rough up the groove with my knife a bit and also rough up the blade. Sometimes I've stripped the blade right back to fresh wood which has helped. The polishing also indicates I'm not applying enough pressure.
If you only have light brown dust then it may be that you aren't applying enough pressure or the wood is too soft.
You just need to practice and experiment, it may take several weeks of practice before things fall in place.
I find that at times, I need to experiment with speed Sometimes a steady speed is key and at other times I need to apply lots of speed. It's all about experimenting.
The videos on this page demonstrate the methods well. Ensure that the place you are ploughing is flat and no knots! I angle the stick so the flat end of the stick moves along the board, pushing and pulling it about 6-8cmish along the board, starting and finishing in roughly the same place. I prefer not to have too long a track\groove otherwise the track will have time to cool and too short- I find I lose momentum by constantly changing direction and it can be more tiring. If everything comes together, then it can be possible to tease out an ember in under a minute of ploughing (and nowadays usually under 30 seconds)
To start , I don't carve out a groove. you DO NOT want a deep groove. I just start by pushing and pulling the stick along with small strokes and slowly extending out - if it keeps getting stuck then I use my knife to smooth out the knobbly bits. If they are just little bumps then I should be able to firmly push through them with the stick. Avoid knots! If it is a new groove, then after a few goes of burning in a track, I'll then carve up wood shavings at the end of the groove so the dust can collect together where it can form an ember. Sometimes, it can take a fair bit of effort to get through the polishing on a new groove even with soft woods - when learning you may be tempted to give up but persevere, rough up the wood if needed - once you are through the polishing, it gets easier!
The groove needs to be shallow! Deep grooves work against you - shave the edges away!
For soft woods, I prefer to use a low angle to start, so more of the blade is in contact to bed in the groove without carving deep, after a while and once the dust pile is building up I will steepen the angle of the blade (less surface contact.) This will focus the friction in a smaller surface area of the blade and I will then apply more speed (the steeper angle can dig deep quickly so I tend to just finish with a few strokes of the steeper angle).
I find I need to exert as much downward pressure as possible. I find maintaining a steady rhythm for about 20seconds and as more smoke appears I apply more pressure and increase speed and go for as long as I can still applying pressure, maintaining a rhythm. I try not to be tempted to shorten the strokes too much as this can work against me.
When I see smoke coming from the dust, I try to go for a bit longer and try not to smash into the dust pile, and increase speed on the final few strokes. Changing the angle of the stick to a more steep angle on the final few strokes can help and is easier to do with a longer stick. As I mentioned earlier, raising off your haunches (if kneeling and if you are far enough back) can really help with the downward pressure.
If there isn't an ember, I take a short rest before trying again! I may need to trim the sides of the groove to flatten it , and check the blade to see if that needs a trim, and check my posture and hand grip.
If I stop creating dust, but there's still smoke, then there may be polishing (especially when starting a new groove), so I rough up the groove with my knife a bit and also rough up the blade. Sometimes I've stripped the blade right back to fresh wood which has helped. The polishing also indicates I'm not applying enough pressure.
If you only have light brown dust then it may be that you aren't applying enough pressure or the wood is too soft.
You just need to practice and experiment, it may take several weeks of practice before things fall in place.
I find that at times, I need to experiment with speed Sometimes a steady speed is key and at other times I need to apply lots of speed. It's all about experimenting.
The next clip shows a close up of Hazel on Poplar fire plough - you can see the dust fibres building up in this clip...(this is one of my earliest plough embers in 2020)
How do I know when I have an ember ? Good question! When I see the dust darkening and piling up and there's lots of smoke then I try to keep going until smoke starts to rise from the dust pile which is an indication I have an ember (I try to go a bit longer if I can and have a final sprint!) I may be creating so much smoke that it may look like the pile is smoking but once I stop and things settle down, the smoke clears and I may just have a dust pile! Sometimes once things have settled down after stopping, the smoke is quite noticeable from the dust pile, other times there has just been a faint wisp (which needs some gentle coaxing) or there is nothing (which for me is mostly due to the dust being too coarse\chunky which may be due to pressure\speed.)
Sometimes it helps by gently turning over the dust pile (if there is only a gentle whisp) as the ember could be trapped underneath the dust pile and doing this helps get air to the ember.
Tapping the side of the hearth with the blade can help jiggle the pile and allow air into the ember as the ember can get smothered, gently blowing on the ember can help too but don't blow too hard and try to ensure it is dry breath.
Sometimes it helps by gently turning over the dust pile (if there is only a gentle whisp) as the ember could be trapped underneath the dust pile and doing this helps get air to the ember.
Tapping the side of the hearth with the blade can help jiggle the pile and allow air into the ember as the ember can get smothered, gently blowing on the ember can help too but don't blow too hard and try to ensure it is dry breath.
Fire Plough can be effective
The videos below show how effective the fire plough can be in the UK using Tilia and how effective the fire plough is using woods such as Malayan Cherry which can be found in more tropical areas and has a much lower combustion point....
The videos below show how effective the fire plough can be in the UK using Tilia and how effective the fire plough is using woods such as Malayan Cherry which can be found in more tropical areas and has a much lower combustion point....
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The Ember
Many of my successful attempts have been quite noticeable in that the smoke has been puffering from the dust pile. A few embers have been the opposite. Once the smoke from the ploughing had settled there was only a faint wisp of smoke which I could easily have discounted but with some encouragement I breathed life into the dust (I used the end of the stick to gently hold the dust down so it wouldn't blow away)
Sometimes, when there has just been a wisp, the ember has gone out. I think this is due to
a) not applying enough pressure - I keep saying it - you need to apply as much as possible!
b) stopping too soon which is why I try to continue for a bit longer and really ramp up the speed when I think there could be an ember (without smashing up the dust pile!)
c) the dust has been too chunky (which may be due to speed\pressure)
d) the wood is just not of the right condition (damp etc/beginning to decay etc)
I let the ember develop and glow a while before transferring to the tinder bundle
Many of my successful attempts have been quite noticeable in that the smoke has been puffering from the dust pile. A few embers have been the opposite. Once the smoke from the ploughing had settled there was only a faint wisp of smoke which I could easily have discounted but with some encouragement I breathed life into the dust (I used the end of the stick to gently hold the dust down so it wouldn't blow away)
Sometimes, when there has just been a wisp, the ember has gone out. I think this is due to
a) not applying enough pressure - I keep saying it - you need to apply as much as possible!
b) stopping too soon which is why I try to continue for a bit longer and really ramp up the speed when I think there could be an ember (without smashing up the dust pile!)
c) the dust has been too chunky (which may be due to speed\pressure)
d) the wood is just not of the right condition (damp etc/beginning to decay etc)
I let the ember develop and glow a while before transferring to the tinder bundle
Transferring the Ember to the Tinder Bundle
Once I have the ember, I need to carefully move it onto the tinder bundle. This isn't as easy as with the bow drill \ hand drill where the ember forms on an ember tray, and I could quite easily lose the ember at this point!
As I mentioned above the ember can be quite delicate, and it's best to leave the ember for a while. There should be plenty of dust on the board which I can add to it. Carefully wafting it a little \ blowing on it, will help it develop, I want a strong ember before attempting to place it on the tinder pile. I could also add some extender (e.g. willowherb seeds heads) ontop to make it even larger. The last thing I want after all the effort, is for the ember to go out or to get lost!
Look after the baby fire! Feed it!
The ember can stick to the board so gently prise /loosen the ember from the board first. I place the bundle (with ember extender) upside down ontop of the ember and then rotate the whole thing over so the board is ontop so when I remove the board the ember is now in the bundle! You just don't want to lose that ember after all that effort!
Once I have the ember, I need to carefully move it onto the tinder bundle. This isn't as easy as with the bow drill \ hand drill where the ember forms on an ember tray, and I could quite easily lose the ember at this point!
As I mentioned above the ember can be quite delicate, and it's best to leave the ember for a while. There should be plenty of dust on the board which I can add to it. Carefully wafting it a little \ blowing on it, will help it develop, I want a strong ember before attempting to place it on the tinder pile. I could also add some extender (e.g. willowherb seeds heads) ontop to make it even larger. The last thing I want after all the effort, is for the ember to go out or to get lost!
Look after the baby fire! Feed it!
The ember can stick to the board so gently prise /loosen the ember from the board first. I place the bundle (with ember extender) upside down ontop of the ember and then rotate the whole thing over so the board is ontop so when I remove the board the ember is now in the bundle! You just don't want to lose that ember after all that effort!
Welcoming the Ancestral Fire!
Like with all other methods, once I have added the ember to the bundle, I then breathe life into the ember, and breathe it into flame!!
Blessings on the ancestral fire!
Like with all other methods, once I have added the ember to the bundle, I then breathe life into the ember, and breathe it into flame!!
Blessings on the ancestral fire!
Just give it a go!
It can be a very frustrating method to learn, but it is very satisfying when you finally see the smoke continue to rise from the dust pile. This is a simple and humbling friction method but takes perseverance, a lot of practice, a lot of patience, refinement of technique, a bit of trial and error, maybe a bit of luck and a bit of zen :) You don't need to be super muscly , and if things aren't working review your technique, your materials, your position and posture.
There is a lot of mis-information on the plough which is why I am passionate about sharing what works for me!
Good luck on your friction journey!
There is a lot of mis-information on the plough which is why I am passionate about sharing what works for me!
Good luck on your friction journey!